Puerto Rican cuisine in Pilsen

September 7, 2007 (WLS) -- Hispanic Heritage Month kicks off next week with celebrations and cultural events taking place all over Chicago.

ABC7 Chicago's Hungry Hound is devoting much of the month to Hispanic cuisine. Food reporter Steve Dolinsky begins the week, with a look at some upscale Puerto Rican food in Pilsen.

When most people think of Puerto Rican food, they head to West Division Street in Humboldt Park. There, you'll find jibarito sandwiches, rice and pigeon peas, and of course, lots of fried plantains. But, a Puerto Rican chef with his own restaurant in Pilsen, is trying to change that one-dimensional view of his native cuisine by altering some ingredients and the cooking techniques.

Pork and starchy vegetables are common in Puerto Rican kitchens, but at the May St. Cafe in Pilsen, the ingredients get star billing.

"We do a little bit more of a contemporary Latin take on the Puerto Rican dishes and give them a little bit more flair," said Mario Santiago of May St. Café.

Take Santiago's 'lechon asado,' for example. He begins with a pork butt, but even a shoulder would do, and cuts slits throughout, just large enough to jam in a clove of garlic into each hole. He rubs it with olive oil, then rubs the outside of the pork with salt and pepper, plus 'achiote,' a dried seasoning that adds both color and Latin flavor. To marinate, he squeezes a 'mojo criollo' into every crevice.

"Concentrated lime juice, orange juice, 'annato,' which is a seed from South America, that actually colors the rice...some cilantro, fresh oregano from the garden, things of that nature," said Santiago.

The rubbed and marinated pork is wrapped up in banana leaves overnight. Next day, it's roasted at 350 for at least two hours, depending on the size. To go along with it, there's boiled yucca and sweet potatoes, but instead of frying them, chef Guadalupe Aguilar boils them until soft, then mashes them in a sautee pan, along with a little butter and heavy cream. The puree is a far cry from the deep-fried approach many Puerto Rican chefs take.

"I think it's a misconception because our food is actually more flavorful because of the marinades and spices that we use," Santiago said.

Once plated, the pork and root vegetable mash are joined by sauteed vegetables, caramelized shallots and earthy mushrooms. A fried sliver of plantain is a nod to the culinary heritage of the island.

"I think a little bit more contemporary twist on the comfort foods of Puerto Rico is a nice way to go, to entertain both new and old," said Santiago.

Another way Santiago updates his food is by sourcing from top-quality purveyors, such as Allen Brothers Beef. The restaurant may be in an industrials area, across the street from a power plant, but its ambitions rise well above its surroundings.

May St. Cafe
1146 W. Cermak Rd.
312-421-4442

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